Yes, its out, And its a little more heavy than the Ten Thousand Fists Album, but is Quite good, Includes the Current hit song "Inside The Fire."

You can find the album by PMing me on Myspace.




http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indestructible_(Disturbed_album)

Ever dropped your cell phone in the sink, or even worse, the toilet? Did you ever leave it in your pocket and run it through the washer? It usually means you have to replace your phone, but sometimes if you're fast, you can save the phone.

Here's How.

1. Get it out of the water as soon as possible. The plastic covers on cell phones are fairly tight, but water can enter the phone over time. But this time may be quite short - 20 seconds or less. So grab your phone quickly! If you can't get to it in time, your best bet is to remove the battery while it is still under water. Water helps dissipate heat from shorts that can damage the phone, so most damage occurs when the inside of the phone is merely wet and there is a power source.
2. Remove the battery. This is one of the most important steps. Don't take time to think about it; electricity and water do not mix. Cutting power to your phone is a crucial first step in saving it. Many circuits inside the phone will survive immersion in water provided they are not attached to a power source when wet.
3. If you have a GSM carrier, remove your SIM card. Some or all of your valuable contacts (along with other data) could be stored on your SIM. To some people this could be more worth saving than the phone itself. SIM cards survive water damage well, but some of the following steps are unnecessary i.e. don't heat it. Just pat it dry and leave it aside until you need to connect your phone to your cellular network. (This step does not apply to CDMA carriers such as Verizon, Alltel, US Cellular,Sprint, etc.)
4. Dry your phone. Obviously you need to remove as much of the water as soon as possible, so you can save it from getting into the phone. Shake it out without dropping it, then use a towel or paper towel to gently remove as much of the remaining water as possible. Dry the excess moisture by hand.
5. Remove any covers and external connectors to open up as many gaps, slots, and crevices as possible.
6. Use a vacuum if possible. Do not use a hair dryer (even on a "cool" mode) to dry out the phone, as this may force moisture further into the small components, deep inside the phone. If moisture is driven deeper inside, corrosion and oxidation may result when minerals from liquids are deposited on the circuitry. Using a hairdryer might be a temporary fix, but this will eventually cause component failure inside the phone. Instead, remove all residual moisture by drawing it away with a vacuum cleaner held over the affected areas for up to 20 minutes in each accessible area. This is the fastest method and can completely dry out your phone and get it working in thirty minutes. Be careful not to hold the vacuum too close to the phone, as a vacuum can create static electricity, which is even worse.
7. Use a substance with a high affinity for water to help draw out moisture. Leave the phone in a bowl or bag of uncooked rice over night. The rice would absorb any remaining moisture. If available, it is preferable to use desiccant instead. Desiccant will absorb moisture better than rice. It may be found under a brand name such as "Damp Rid" or "Dry Right".
8. Let the phone sit on absorbent towels, napkin, or other paper. Remember that the goal is to evacuate all the moisture and humidity, not to trap it or add even more. Check every hour for 4 to 6 hours. If moisture is evident, repeat the vacuuming step and desiccant steps.
9. Test your phone. After you have waited a day or so, make sure everything is clean and dry looking and re-attach the battery to the phone and see if it works. If your phone does not work, try plugging it into its charger without the battery, if this works, you need a new battery. If not, try taking your cell phone to an authorized dealer. Sometimes they can fix it. Don't try to hide the fact that it has been wet. There are internal indicators that prove moisture.

General Tips.

• In most cases, if you pulled the battery out in time, cleaning the inside of your phone with cleaning alcohol (alcohol will displace the water) or contact spray will fix your problem. If there is even one drop of water left inside, it can ruin your phone by corroding it and making the wrong contact. If your phone is powering up but still acting strange after you have cleaned it, then you've missed some liquid or the corrosion has already occurred and disassembly and cleaning with a toothbrush and appropriate solvent may fully fix it. For the fainthearted, a skilled technician or engineer can often fix such an issue easily and quickly.
• Excessive heat can damage your phone even more! Most phones have warnings about leaving them in your car or exposing them to heat. The main point is to completely dry the phone before applying power.
• Use the LOWEST heat setting! or better still don't use heat at all, use a vacuum cleaner to rapidly draw all the residual moisture out, this usually takes about 20 minutes of care and patience turning the phone every few minutes to ensure all holes and outlets get accessed.
• If your phone falls in the ocean or other salt water, rinse with fresh water before crystals can form after removing battery.
• If your phone has been subjected to salt water crystallizing, gently tap the board and the chips with a plastic object (back of a small screw driver for example). The vibration of the taps will set some of the foreign objects free and they will fall out. Be careful and don't smash the board or the chips. A sharp enough blow will break the chips. Tapping very gently multiple times in multiple locations, especially around the chips, is a preferred method. And follow up with appropriate solvent cleaning afterwards to clean away any oxidation residue.
• Try opening your phone if you can. You'll probably need a TORX screwdriver for that, but it's worth it. This may void your warranty, but it is likely the water damage already has.
• If you know someone at your local high school's physics department, try putting your wet cell phone in the vacuum chamber at 2 psi for 1 hour. That will dry out parts you can't access as will the tip above regarding a vacuum cleaner if you have no vacuum chamber available.
• Try holding a compressed air can STRAIGHT (upside down, sideways, or at an angle will shoot out a freezing liquid) and shoot into the crevices, speaker, mic, and keypad. Any excess water stuck should come out. If the can gets cold and you're not done, let the can sit a while before continuing, as cold air could make excess moisture condense onto parts deeper inside. This process should be followed by the other methods that use a vacuum chamber or vacuum cleaner to more thoroughly remove any deeper residual moisture and humidity as the phone must be totally dry inside to ensure no further failure later on. The contents of many "canned air" products can be poisonous. Follow all recommendations on the can label.
• Since your warranty is void anyway, if you have further problems with your phone functions after trying the best methods to dry it out inside as soon as it got wet, then buy (RAZR needs Torx #4, #5, and #6) screwdrivers to open your case, since these are almost always specialized. Pick up a can of Contact Spray (electric contact cleaner)and douse the inside. It dries rapidly. Scrub any residue with a soft-bristle toothbrush. Spray with compressed air, and/or vacuum it out for several minutes to suck out further moisture and then carefully put it back together. Do not leave your phone wet for an extended period of time. Dry it out as soon as possible.
• Place the phone in a vacuum chamber and active the chamber. Typically universities and specific industries will have a vacuum chamber available if you happen to know the right person. Water "boils" at room temperature, given enough time, meaning that it evaporates through bubbles even though it isn't heated. This method should be successful when the vacuum is maintained at room temperature for about 30 minutes.

• Do not power on the phone. This is important as it will prevent a charge from running from the battery to the phone which may subsequently cause the phone to short.
• Don't heat the battery or it could leak or explode. Lithium-ion batteries are sensitive. If you use an oven or hairdryer, make sure to remove the battery first.
• If you use alcohol make sure to do so outside, and do not apply heat in any form, not even the gentle heat of a monitor. Do not hook up the battery until the alcohol smell dissipates.
• Do not apply too much heat to your phone, as mentioned above. You don't want to melt or burn your phone.
• Most modern phones have more than one liquid damage indicator (stickers that change color when wet) on them, only one visible to you (and sales/technician agents), and chances are, if the sticker under the battery is triggered, then the odds are that the internal stickers you can't access are tripped as well. This will still result in you paying a voided-warranty fee in the long run. Warranties don't cover water damage, insurance does. And not all insurance companies or plans will honor water damaged phones.
• Even if all these steps are followed, minerals dissolved in the water can precipitate on solder and component pins, causing corrosion or shorting. Components pins are packed so closely together in a modern cell phone that even a small encrustation can create a short, rendering the phone inoperable.
• Be warned that manufacturers place stickers that will display "void" once peeled and some will change colors in the presence of a liquid (usually turns blue or red). This helps techs know that you have dropped it in the water, as most cell phone insurance coverage policies don't cover water damage. Also note that these stickers have been known to change colors in extreme humidity as well.
• Do not put the phone (or any electronic or metal-containing object) into the microwave. You will destroy electronic components and potentially the microwave.
• For the semi-mechanically inclined remove screws and as a minimum crack the case open to allow moisture to escape. Cell phones are normally somewhat water proof so they can be used in the light rain and humid environments. This means that once moisture has entered the phone it is very hard for it to dry out. Getting the phone out of the water and IMMEDIATELY REMOVING THE BATTERY gives you the best chance of success.

Good Luck, and try to not be so clumsy.

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Security companies and IT people constantly tells us that we should use complex and difficult passwords. This is bad advice, because you can actually make usable, easy to remember and highly secure passwords. In fact, usable passwords are often far better than complex ones.

So let's dive into the world of passwords, and look at what makes a password secure in practical terms.

How to hack a password

The work involved in hacking passwords is very simple. There are 5 proven ways to do so:

1. Asking: Amazingly the most common way to gain access to someone's password is simply to ask for it (often in relation with something else). People often tell their passwords to colleagues, friends and family. Having a complex password policy isn't going to change this.
2. Guessing: This is the second most common method to access a person's account. It turns out that most people choose a password that is easy to remember, and the easiest ones are those that are related to you as a person. Passwords like: your last name, your wife's name, the name of your cat, the date of birth, your favorite flower etc. are all pretty common. This problem can only be solved by choosing a password with no relation to you as a person.
3. Brute force attack: Very simple to do. A hacker simply attempts to sign-in using different passwords one at the time. If you password is "sun", he will attempt to sign-in using "aaa, aab, aac, aad ... sul, sum, sun (MATCH)". The only thing that stops a brute force attack is higher complexity and longer passwords (which is why IT people want you to use just that).
4. Common word attacks: A simple form of brute-force attacks, where the hacker attempt to sign-in using a list of common words. Instead of trying different combination of letters, the hacker tries different words e.g. "sum, summer, summit, sump, sun (MATCH)".
5. Dictionary attacks: Same concept as common word attacks - the only difference is that the hacker now uses the full dictionary of words (there are about 500,000 words in the English language).
6. No, I WILL NOT HELP YOU. This is strictly Informational.
   

When is a password secure?

You cannot protect against "asking" and "guessing", but you can protect yourself from the other forms of attacks. A hacker will usually create an automated script or a program that does the work for him. He isn't going to sit around manually trying 500,000 different words to see if one of them is your password.

The measure of security must then be "how many password requests can the automated program make - e.g. per second". The actual number varies, but most web applications would not be capable of handling more than 100 sign-in requests per second.

This means it takes the following time to hack a simple password like "sun":

• Brute-force: 3 minutes
• Common Word: 3 minutes
• Dictionary: 1 hour 20 minutes

Note: "sun" has 17,576 possible character combinations. 3 letters using the lowercase alphabet = 26³

This is of course a highly insecure password, but how much time is enough for a password to be secure?

• a password that can be hacked in 1 minute is far too riksy
• 10 minutes - still far too risky
• 1 hour - still not good enough
• 1 day - now we are getting somewhere. The probability that a person will have a program running just to hack your account for an entire day is very little. Still, it is plausible.
• 1 month - this is something that only a dedicated attacker would do.
• 1 year - now we are moving from practical risk to theoretical risk. If you are NASA or CIA then it is unacceptable. For the rest of us, well - you do not have that kind of enemies, nor is your company data that interesting.
• 10 years - Now we are talking purely theoretical.
• A lifetime: 100 years - this is really the limit for most people. Who cares about their password being hacked after they have died? Still it is nice to know that you use a password that is "secure for life"

But let's take a full swing at this. Let's look at "100 year - secure for life". It has good ring to it and it makes us feel safe. There is still the chance that the hacker gets lucky. That he accidently finds the right password after only 15 years instead of 100. It happens.

Let's step that up too and go for the full high-end security level. I want a password that takes 1,000 years to crack- let's call this "secure forever". That ought to be good enough, right?

Making usable and secure passwords

Now that we have covered the basics, let's look at some real examples, and see just how usable we can make a password, while still being "secure forever".

Note: The examples below are based on 100 password request per second. The result is the approach that is the most effective way to hack that specific password - either being by the use of brute-force, common words or dictionary attacks.

First let's look at the common 6 character password - using different methods:

In this example complexity clearly wins. Using a password with mixed case characters, numbers and symbols is far more secure than anything else. Using a simple word as your password is clearly useless.

Does that mean that the IT-departments and security companies is right? Nope, it just means that a 6 character password isn't going to work. None can remember a password like "J4fS<2",>

To make usable passwords we need to look at them differently. First of all what you need is to use words you can remember, something simple and something you can type fast.

Like these:

Using more than one simple word as your password increases you security substantially (from 3 minutes to 2 months). But, by simply using 3 words instead of two, you suddenly got an extremely secure password.

It takes:

• 1,163,859 years using a brute-force method
• 2,537 years using a common word attack
• 39,637,240 years using a dictionary attack

It is 10 times more secure to use "this is fun" as your password, than "J4fS<2".

If you want to be insanely secure; simply choose uncommon words as your password - like:

A usable and secure password is then not a complex one. It is one that you can remember - a simple password using 3+ words.

It is not just about passwords

One thing is to choose a secure and usable password. Another thing is to prevent the hacker from hacking password in the first place. This is a very simple thing to do.

All you need to do is to prevent automatic hacking scripts from working effectively. What you need to do is this:

1. Add a time-delay between sign-in attempts. Instead of allowing people to sign-in again and again and again. Add a 5 second delay between each attempt.
   
   It is short enough to not be noticeable (it takes longer than 5 seconds to realize that you have tried a wrong password, and to type in a new one). And, it forces the hacker to only be able make sign-in requests 1 every 5 seconds (instead of 100 times per second).
2. Add a penalty period if a person has typed a wrong password more than - say - 10 times - of something like 1 hour. Again, this seriously disrupts the hacking script from working effectively.

A hacker can hack the password "alpine fun" in only 2 months if he is able to attack your server 100 times per second. But, with the penalty period and the 5 second delay, the same password can suddenly sustain an attack for 1,889 years.

Remember this the next time you are making web applications or discussing password policies. Passwords can be made both highly secure and user-friendly.

Picture this: You find yourself sitting in a hotel room that does not offer internet... As you look out the window, you spot that the three hotels & a Starbucks across the street advertising "Free Wireless Internet" -- if only you had known this when you booked! You fire up your wireless card, but the signal just is to weak to keep a consistent connection. What are you going to do?

Enter “The Predator”.

The predator is a modified wireless router connected to a high-powered antenna and running custom firmware to actively seek out open wireless connections. Once they are found, it will test them for internet connectivity and then join and repeat the one with the strongest signal to secured wireless connection that YOU control.

*Note: It is illegal to use a wireless access point that you are not authorized to use.

Materials Needed:

• (1) Buffalo WHR-HP-G54
  (or other DD-WRT compatible Router with upgradeable SMA Male Reverse antenna)
• (1) HyperLink 2.4GHz 14.5 Yagi Antenna with N-Female Connection.
  *Note: If you plan on using this antenna ONLY for a “predator” order it with an Reverse Polarity SMA Plug.
• (1) Reverse Polarity SMA Male to Male N-type adapter.
  *Note: The use of adapters lowers the effective range of the antenna, however I preferred to order my antenna with a standard connector for re-use in the future.
• (1) Sears’s Ultra-Cheap camera tripod
• Misc screws & Velcro mounting strips

Step 1 : Preparation

Create an “Working Directory” on your Workstation where you can store all required files. Windows users, I would suggest you make c:\predator and OSX/Linux users I would suggest ~/predator.

Windows users in a DOS prompt type:
cd\
mkdir predator

OSX/Linux users in a command terminal type:
cd ~
mkdir predator

Then download the “AutoAP” firmware into this directory. I-Hacked members can download this firmware directly from this link, others will need to download from Sourceforge. Once downloaded you should now have a file:

dd-wrt.V24_AAP-0130-generic.bin

Next, plug in your WHR-HP-G54 and connect your PC to it via a Cat5 network cable. It is important that you are directly connected and do not ever attempt to flash your router via a wireless connection.

If your WHR-HP-G54 is brand-new (or unmodified) its ip address will be 192.168.1.11. Verify that you can ping (or hit the web interface @ http://192.168.11.1) this address before moving to step two.

If your router has been modified it might have a different IP address, and I would suggest restoring it to its factory default settings before moving forward. To reset press the red INIT button on the bottom of the router for 15 seconds. Do not let go of the INIT button until the red DIAG lights up or flashes. The restore process can take up to two minutes.

Step 2 : TFTP Flash upgrading the firmware

On the computer that is directly connected to the router, open two command windows.

In the first command window, ping the router permanently
ping –t 192.168.11.1
(OSX/Linux hosts do not need the -t parameter)

and you should see if it responding, e.g. like this (notice the ttl=64)

64 bytes from 192.168.11.1: icmp_seq=1 ttl=64 time=2.90 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.11.1: icmp_seq=2 ttl=64 time=0.264 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.11.1: icmp_seq=3 ttl=64 time=1.44 ms

Now in the second command window, change directories to where you saved the AutoAP firmware. (cd\predator or cd ~/predator) Type out the following command, but DO NOT HIT ENTER:

tftp -i 192.168.11.1 put dd-wrt.V24_AAP-0130-generic.bin

Now, we need to put the router into tftp update ready mode by rebooting the router. When power is first applied to the router, it enters a debug mode where it will accept tftp upgrades. Pull and re-insert the power, and watch for it to enter the debug mode. In the ping window, you will see the ping response will stop momentarily, and then finally restart like this: (notice the ttl=128)

From 192.168.11.1 icmp_seq=1 Destination Host Unreachable
From 192.168.11.1 icmp_seq=2 Destination Host Unreachable
64 bytes from 192.168.11.1: icmp_seq=3 ttl=128 time=2.90 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.1.11: icmp_seq=4 ttl=128 time=3.50 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.11.1: icmp_seq=5 ttl=128 time=0.90 ms

Once it comes back, check to insure the TTL has changed to 128. If it is responding to your pings with 128 TTLs, the router is ready for the TFTP upgrade. Finally press enter on the command you typed out in the TFTP window. You may have to try it a couple times to get the timing down correctly. If the router does not come back with ttl=128 you may have to reset the device using the reset button.

When the upload is successful WAIT AT LEAST THREE MINUTES. (BE PATIENT! DON’T RESET THE ROUTER!) Seriously, go grab a beer or something -- let it set for awhile, the device needs to install the new custom firmware.

After the three minutes have passed, unplug and replug-in your router. The router will now be running a custom version of DD-WRT with AutoAP installed and responding at the IP address 192.168.1.1 (you may have to renew your ip address first to be in the 192.168.1.x subnet)

Step 3 : Configure the predator

Connect to the web-interface by opening your browser and going to http://192.168.1.1 and login with:

username: root
password: admin

First we need to do a factory reset after the successful flash. Go to Administration / Factory Defaults / Check "Yes" to Restore Factory Defaults and click SAVE. This will reboot the router. (If it doesn't, manually reboot it)

Once the router returns, log in. We now need to enable "Universal Wireless Repeater Mode"

Go to tab "Setup", sub-tab "Basic Setup":

• Change Router Name to WPRED (or whatever you want to call it)
  
• Change Host Name to WPRED (or whatever you want to call it)
  
• Change "local IP address" to a unique subnet (different than device you wish to repeat), such as 192.168.69.1.
• Click SAVE. This should reboot the router. (if not, reboot it)

Point your browser to the new IP address (http://192.168.69.1) you chose in the previous step. (you may need to change/renew ip address) Login and go to tab "Security", sub-tab "Firewall": Uncheck all check boxes and THEN set Firewall to "disable". Save settings.

Then go to the Wireless Tab and change the Wireless Mode to Repeater. Clear SSID field and hit save.

Next add a Virtual Interface, this will be the Wireless SSID that YOU will connect to. (bridged to the open access points)

• Set SSID to: IHPred (your choice)
  *Note: The SSID with "predator" in its name seems to make neighbors with kids understandably uncomfortable, I would not suggest doing that.
• Check SSID Broadcast (your choice)
• AP Isolation - Disabled
• Network Configuration (Bridged)

Then click SAVE.

Go to tab "Wireless", subtab "Advanced Settings". Set "Preamble" to "Short" and "Xmit Power" to higher than default (I use 200). Click "Save Settings".

Finally configure and enable the "Predatory" features of your device. Go to tab "Wireless", subtab "AutoAP".

• Check "Enable AutoAP"
• Log type to your preference (html output) *See note below
  
• Scan Frequency to 60
• Max APs to Track to 10
• DHCP Renew Timeout to 15
• Find Open APs to Enable
• Internet Checking to Enable
• URL to check to www.google.com
• Enable WEP Checking to Enable (if you have WEP encrypted APs you want it to join)
• Add any WEP keys you have
  
• Add any BSSID or MAC addresses you do NOT want the AP to associate with
• Click SAVE.

Reboot your router. Wait for about 1 minute. At this point the router should be fully configured to be running in "Predator" mode. However before you start assembling it, take a few minutes to verify everything.

In one of your command windows, type:

telnet 192.168.69.1
(or whatever you set the IP address to)

Login using root/admin and type:

ps | grep autoap

and make sure that you see something similar to the one below (look for /bin/autoap)



f you do not see this, reboot your router and check again. If you still do not see it:

(This step should not be needed)

First make sure that you are typing the command right, copy and paste it. If you STILL do not see it, Log back into the web interface, go the the "Administration" Tab, "Commands" sub-tab. Paste the following command box:

/bin/autoap &

Make sure you hit the "Save Startup" button. (and not the "Save" button) Reboot the router, wait 1 minute and repeat the telnet "verification" step. Once you can verify that autoap is running on startup, you can unplug the router and move to the final step.

The Final Step is quite a big one and I will post it later.

So, after talking to Augs for a while, I have decided to make a blog for hacks, tips and tweaks.

I will try to work on this as much as I can but currently I am waiting for my phone to come from UPS, It should be here Today.

The First hack/mod I will post will probably be the Altoids USB Mod, its easy, but requires a Dremel tool for the slot, a Altoids Tin (I used the tiny one), and a USB Drive. For the Tutorial I will be using a 64 MB One I got free for reserving Command and Conquer 3, But anything is fine, You can get the one in the link for $20 From Walmart in Saginaw.